![]() June 3rd, 2014
05:00 PM ET
5@5 is a food-related list from chefs, writers, political pundits, musicians, actors, and all manner of opinionated people from around the globe. Editor's note: Robert O. Simonson is the author of "The Old Fashioned" and he writes about cocktails, spirits and bar culture for The New York Times as well as GQ, Wine Enthusiast, Wine Advocate, Imbibe, Edible Manhattan and Edible Brooklyn, and Time Out New York. The thing to keep in mind about the Old-Fashioned - and the reason this drink keeps people fascinated, satisfied and frequently argumentative - is that it’s not just a great cocktail but that it’s also the cocktail. That is, it follows to the letter the blueprint for a category of drink - spirit, bitters, water, sugar - that was established more than two centuries ago. That recipe structure, while as sturdy as steel, also happens to be endlessly welcoming of interpretation, embracing spirits well beyond the de rigueur whiskey. In fact, for a short period of time in the late-19th-century and early 20th century, a number of old cocktail books treated the Old-Fashioned not as a single drink, but as a branch of cocktails. (Gin Old-Fashioned, Brandy Old-Fashioned, etc.) Today’s mixologists approach the drink with much the same mix of reverence and imagination, perfecting their ultimate expression of the classic drink with one hand, while messing around with the model with the other. The profit of this twin-minded attitude is that many of today’s cocktail menus include a classic Old-Fashioned for the purists and, for the curious, an in-house version that switches out the base spirit, the sweetener, the bitters and sometimes all three. So, it you ever find yourself growing tired of the same old Bourbon or Rye Old-Fashioned (why this would happen, we can’t fathom), there are options. Try giving one of these differently spiritous iterations a spin. 5 Old-Fashioned variations for every spirit: Robert O. Simonson Rum Old-Fashioned 2 ounces English Harbour 5-year-old Mix the syrup and bitters at the bottom of an Old-Fashioned glass and add the rum. Add one large chunk of ice and stir until chilled. Twist a large piece of lime zest over the drink and drop it into the glass. 2. Gin Genever Old-Fashioned 2 ounces Bols barrel-aged genever Muddle the sugar cube, bitters, absinthe, maraschino liqueur, curacao and a barspoon of warm water at the bottom of an Old-Fashioned glass until the sugar is dissolved. Add the genever. Stir. Add one large chunk of ice and stir until chilled. Twist a large piece of lemon zest over the drink and drop into the glass. 3. Tequila Oaxaca Old-Fashioned 1 1/2 ounces El Tesoro reposado tequila Combine all the ingredients except the orange twist in an Old-Fashioned glass filled with one large ice cube. Stir until chilled. Top with a flame orange twist: hold a piece orange peel about the size of a silver dollar, skin side down, over the drink. Light a match and use it to warm the skin side of the peel. Holding the match a few inches above the drink, quickly squeeze the peel in the direction of the match. The oil from the peel will briefly erupt into flame, showering its essence over the drink’s surface. 4. Scotch Scotch is a little too much of an Type-A-personality spirit to work and play well as a cocktail’s base spirit. But it can function in an Old-Fashioned, if you choose your brand carefully. Joaquin Simo’s Young Laddie - another Death & Co. creation - is a combo that works, largely owing to the selection of a no-to-smoky Islay Scotch and a double grapefruit assist. Young Laddie 2 ounces Bruichladdich “Rocks” Scotch whisky, or another single-malt Scotch that is not too smoky in character Combine all the ingredients except the twists in an Old-Fashioned glass. Add one large chunk of ice and stir until chilled. Twist a wide piece of orange zest and a wide piece of grapefruit zest over the drink and drop into the glass. 5. Applejack Applejack Old-Fashioned 2 ounces Laird’s bonded applejack Mix the syrup and bitters at the bottom of an Old-Fashioned glass. Add the applejack. Stir. Add one chunk of ice and stir until chilled. Twist a large piece of orange zest over the drink and drop into the glass. Previously: Is there someone you'd like to see in the hot seat? Let us know in the comments below and if we agree, we'll do our best to chase 'em down. |
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Enquiring minds just want to know: in the Oaxaca Old-Fashioned recipe, how much volume is a "barspoon"? Not that I'm planning on making this immediately, but simply rampant curiousity?
The Scotch one sounds good.
It's hard to find a bartender that can make a decent old fashioned.
I've only found 1 guy who can make a great Old Fashioned. He goes the whole 9 yards, REAL maraschino cherries, a little orange zest on the rim, and he light's a squirt of the orange oil. I can sort of remember the times I've stopped by there for a drink or 3. Of course I live near Dayton Ohio so my choices are slim to begin with.
As a tea party person, i can say you are not far from the mark but everclear gives brutal hangovers. Try some good corn 'licker sourced from your local provider.
Love this post! I would love for 5@5 to chase down Chef and Restaurateur Marilyn Schlossbach – she has a thing or two to share about the enduring pleasures of tequila in the summer!
The Young Laddie sounds just right – on many levels. With citrus, it even sounds refreshing. Not something one would normally say about Scotch. I'd hit it.
Very sneaky, and I concur!
"I'd hit it" Lol!