November 5th, 2013
05:00 PM ET
5@5 is a food-related list from chefs, writers, political pundits, musicians, actors, and all manner of opinionated people from around the globe. Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman have been friends since childhood - that is after the two of them got past the habit of badmouthing each other every time their rival Catholic schools met on the playing field. Though the duo were born and raised in Memphis, both come from large, Italian-American families that ritualize meals and celebrate their culinary heritage. The two 2013 Food & Wine Best New Chefs preserve and progress their dual Southern/Italian culture at their restaurants Andrew Michael Italian Kitchen and Hog & Hominy. Their recently-published cookbook, "Collards and Carbonara" shares many of the techniques and recipes, so their ever-growing fan base can explore this soulful, seasonal meld at home. And you can't nail the Italian half of the equation without mastering fresh pasta. Here are five shapes that - with a little practice - may make you say "Ciao!" to the boxed stuff for good. Five classic pasta shapes to make at home: Andy Ticer and Michael Hudman 1. Sciatelli To make sciatelli: Roll up the strips into rods. Cut the rods into 2-inch (5-cm) pieces. Using a wooden skewer or a thin metal rod (about the diameter of a coat hanger), place the cut pasta onto the skewer and roll it around the skewer into a noodle. Give a gentle twist and pull to remove the skewer and leave a small hole through the pasta. Place the noodles, not touching, on a semolina-dusted baking sheet. - Basic Pasta Dough In a large liquid measuring pitcher, combine the eggs, oil, and enough lukewarm water to measure 21∕2 cups (20 fl oz/625 ml). Whisk until well blended. Put the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Pour 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) of the egg-oil mixture into the well. Then, using a fork, slowly draw the flour into the egg-oil mixture. Continue to incorporate the flour until all of it is combined with the liquid and a shaggy dough has formed. Add more egg-oil mixture if needed to help the dough come together. Once the dough comes together, turn it out of the bowl onto a clean work surface and knead until it is smooth and has nice elasticity (it should spring back immediately when you press it with a fingertip), about 10 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let rest for 45 minutes before using. 2. Gnocchi To make gnocchi: To make the gnocchi, preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Using a fork, poke holes all over the potatoes. Put them on the oven rack and bake until very tender when pierced with a knife, about 45 minutes. Cut the potatoes open lengthwise across the top and let the steam escape. As soon as they are cool enough to handle, use a large spoon to scoop all of the potato flesh from the skins. Put the still-warm potato flesh in a food mill set over a bowl and turn the crank until all the potato flesh is in the bowl; do this quickly as you don’t want the flesh to cool completely before you make the dough. Using a kitchen scale, weigh out 2 lb (1 kg) of the potato flesh and place in a bowl. Add the egg yolks, nutmeg, a large pinch of salt, and 4 turns pepper and mix well with a wooden spoon or your hands. Add 11⁄2 cups (71⁄2 oz/235 g) of the flour and use your hands to incorporate it gently into the dough. Take care not to over-mix or the gnocchi will be heavy. Add additional flour a tablespoon at a time if the dough seems too wet. On a clean work surface, divide the dough into 4 pieces. Working with 1 dough piece at a time, shape it into a short cylinder. Place the fingers of both hands on the cylinder and roll it back and forth on the clean surface (flour on the surface will make it difficult to roll the cylinders), gradually shifting your hands to the ends, to form a log about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Make logs out of the remaining 3 dough pieces. Next, using a knife, cut each log into 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. Roll each piece across a gnocchi board to create grooves in which the sauce can collect. If you don’t have a gnocchi board, gently press the tines of a fork into the top surface of each piece of gnocchi. 3. Pappardelle To make red wine pappardelle Crack the eggs into a large liquid measuring pitcher and add 2 glugs (about 2 tablespoons) of olive oil. Pour the wine into the pitcher until it measures 21∕2 cups (20 fl oz/625 ml) total liquid. Whisk the ingredients together. Put the flour in a bowl and make a well in the center. Pour the wine mixture into the well. Using your hands, work the liquid into the flour until the mixture starts to come together in a ball. Turn the dough ball out onto a clean work surface and knead the dough until it is smooth and has nice elasticity (it should spring back immediately when you press it with a fingertip), about 10 minutes. Wrap the dough with plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes. To form the pasta sheets, roll the pasta dough through a standard pasta machine to the number 4 setting. Working with 1 sheet at a time, dust it on both sides with flour and lay it on a work surface. Cut the sheet lengthwise into sections 8 inches (20 cm) long. Using a fluted or straight pasta cutter, cut down the length of the pasta sheet to make noodles about 1 inch (2.5 cm) wide. Place the noodles, not touching, on a semolina-dusted baking sheet. 4. Malfatti To make pumpkin malfatti Place the fingers of both hands on the cylinder and roll it back and forth on the work surface, gradually shifting your hands to the ends, to form a log about 1 inch (2.5 cm) in diameter. Next, using a knife, cut each log into about 1-inch (2.5-cm) pieces. Roll each piece across a gnocchi board to create grooves in which the sauce can collect. If you don’t have a gnocchi board, gently press the tines of a fork into the top surface of each piece of malfatti. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. When the water is boiling, drop in the malfatti and cook until they float to the top, then set a kitchen timer and cook for 5 more minutes. - Pumpkin Malfatti Dough Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil. In a large bowl, combine the pumpkin purée, ricotta, eggs, Parmigiano-Reggiano, orange zest, nutmeg, and salt and mix well with a wooden spoon. Add the flour, 1 cup (5 oz/155 g) at a time, and use your hands to incorporate the ingredients until they come together in a ball. The less flour you add, the less dense the dough will be. You’re aiming for a texture that is slightly heavier than potato gnocchi but with a strong pumpkin flavor. 5. Strozzapreti To make Strozzapreti Working with 1 sheet of pasta at a time, and covering the unused portions of the dough with a damp kitchen towel as you work, cut the sheet lengthwise down the center. Using a sharp knife, cut the sheet crosswise into 1∕2-inch (12-mm) strips. To form the shapes, take 2 of the strips and, using your fingers, pinch them together in the center. Roll them back and forth in the palm of your hand, so that the pieces adhere in the center but the ends are still separate. The finished shapes will resemble a cross between cavatelli (oblong pasta shells) and bow ties. As the strozzapreti are formed, place them, not touching, on a semolina-dusted baking sheet. - Carrot-top pasta dough Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil, add the carrot tops, and blanch just to set the color, about 30 seconds. Plunge the carrot tops into ice water to lock in the color, then drain and transfer to a blender. Add 2 cups (16 fl oz/500 ml) water and purée until smooth. Pour the purée through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring pitcher, add the egg yolks and 3 glugs (about 3 tablespoons) of olive oil, and whisk until blended. Put the flour in a large bowl and make a well in the center. Pour 2 cups of the carrot top–egg mixture into the well. Then, using a fork, slowly draw the flour into the egg mixture. Continue to incorporate the flour until all of it is combined with the liquid and a shaggy dough has formed. Add more carrot top-egg mixture if needed to help the dough come together. Once the dough comes together, turn it out of the bowl onto a clean work surface and knead until it is smooth and has nice elasticity (it should spring back immediately when you press it with a fingertip), about 10 minutes. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let rest for 30 minutes before using. Is there someone you'd like to see in the hot seat? Let us know in the comments below and if we agree, we'll do our best to chase 'em down. |
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Hmm,
Pumpkin Malfatti Dough was awesome I loved it when I make it I don't think that my first attempt was that much successful at that time I was shocked.
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Corporate Catering Service Melbourne
Reblogged this on ¿Cheeoose?.
My family recipe for gnocci is a little different, but this one sounds good too. I've never tried nutmeg in the noodles.
Perhaps this is the poor person's version of gnocci, but we cut the dough into small pieces, flatten a piece against the thumb, then gently run it up the small side of a cheese grater. It automatically curls into itself a bit, and gives the noodle a great texture.
I absolutely love gnocci. It's a comfort food for me, and super filling. Plus, it freezes perfectly, so if you make a nice large batch, it'll last you awhile.
"8 cups (21⁄2 lb/1.25 kg) 00 flour Semolina flour for dusting"
Isn't that a lot of flour just for dusting? ;-)
Shoot - there should have been a line break. Fixed. Thank you!
That Gnocchi dish looks to die for. Thanks for the post.
Interesting!